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              Mumbai: It was a rather 
              cool evening in the second week of December 1992 when I was 
              permitted to leave early - to rush from south Mumbai's Nariman 
              Point to the northwest suburb of Borivli, at the other end of the 
              city.
 At 7 p.m., as I warily entered the Churchgate station, I stopped 
              in my tracks: it was eerily empty! On normal weekdays, every inch 
              was occupied with commuters in the day, especially the 
              morning-evening peak hours.
 
 That night I travelled virtually alone in the train, barring the 
              motorman and guard, and maybe a suspicious commuter getting in 
              briefly at one of the 20 railway stations en route.
 
 That was what Mumbai had degenerated into after the Dec. 6, 1992, 
              razing of the Babri mosque, in faraway Ayodhya. It was among 
              certain cities in the country which bore the brunt in the 
              aftermath of the demolition.
 
 It had erupted into a frenzy of riots, senseless killings, mobs 
              brazenly moving around armed with sticks, rods, swords, chains, 
              bottles, bulbs and tubelights to maim or kill. The riots continued 
              thus in two phases Dec 7-27, 1992, followed by a brief lull, and 
              then again Jan 7-25, 1993 - making them the worst sectarian riots 
              in the post-Independence era.
 
 Such was the fear even among mediapersons, who worked late hours, 
              that many offices temporarily changed the timings for their staff 
              members, especially those in the sensitive category, and even 
              organised overnight boarding-lodging in local hotels.
 
 At times, mediapersons grouped together for a particular train - 
              and discovered that only 10-12 people occupied an entire suburban 
              local into which 5,000 commuters were normally packed!
 
 Surprisingly, during the day - barring some pockets - Mumbai 
              remained calm and peaceful, with people going about their normal 
              routine. Like the proverbial vampires, the killer beasts started 
              lurking around the city's streets and alleys after dark.
 
 Besides the direct victims, also hit was Mumbai's legendary, 
              rocking nightlife, its erstwhile dance bars which have featured in 
              practically all the top international media, the non-stop 
              night-long parties, lavish weddings, movies and theatres, shopping 
              or simply night outs at the beaches, gardens and other public 
              places.
 
 Even the popular all-night joints like Bade Miyan in Colaba and 
              Haji Ali Juice Centre where you could be chewing into a 'Baida-Roti' 
              or an exotic milkshake with stars like Saif Ali Khan, Amrita 
              Singh, Jackie Shroff, ministers, policemen and other top 
              officials, leading businesspersons and others jostling for elbow 
              space at the open counters, were deserted.
 
 Though some of these have revived with extra precautions, there is 
              always a warning for the youngsters: "Take care, come home early," 
              - unheard of prior to the riots.
 
 According to official estimates, the two-phased riots claimed 
              nearly 900 lives, including policemen. Many hundreds are reported 
              missing and presumed dead for years. Public and private properties 
              worth billions of rupees was destroyed and the spirit of Mumbai 
              was shaken to its roots.
 
 This writer and many others travelled in armed police vehicles - 
              some luckier ones in army vehicles - which fanned out to control 
              the rioters who seemed to appear from nowhere, create mayhem and 
              disappear.
 
 Finally, the army found a way to control the riots - without 
              firing a single bullet or even raising a baton in warning. It 
              deployed two of its ferocious dogs, each the size of a pony, 
              before huge crowds of 3,000-5,000. The trained dogs were simply 
              let loose on the mobs, which practically turned invisible in 
              seconds!
 
 Finding that the barking dogs were more effective than the biting 
              variety without a single casualty, they were regularly deployed in 
              various sensitive areas. After the riots, the two dogs were 
              accorded due recognition - a front page lead photograph in a 
              prominent city daily!
 
 With revenge taken by both sides, the two-phased mass riots 
              finally ended - though some small pockets continued to brun for a 
              few more weeks.
 
 Mumbaikars heaved a sigh of relief - but not for long as March 12, 
              1993 witnessed what was India's first retaliatory serial bomb 
              explosions hitting Mumbai from the southern parts right into the 
              suburbs at quick intervals. It was also the country's first 
              home-bred, non-terror attack, perpetrated by the underground and 
              with a precision that remained unmatched for years afterwards.
 
 After making all the right noises, the politicians at the centre 
              and the state got down to brasstacks - politicking - with 
              sackings, replacements or removals of officials and politicians, 
              change of governments, et al.
 
 One of the most hailed inquiry reports, of the Justice B. N. 
              Srikrishna Commission which probed the riots and the bomb blasts 
              also came out later, but most recommendations remained 
              unimplemented.
 
 But, 20 years later, the original soul of Bombay is missing 
              somewhere.
 
 
              
              (Quaid Najmi can be contacted at q.najmi@ians.in)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
               
 
 
              
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